Tam Tam, Les Cannibales Deux, and Le Baobob are just several of the culinary hotspots within Senegal's capital city of Dakar. As indicated by these particular restaurants' names, Senagelese food is characterized by a clear French influence. However, it nonetheless maintains a unique flavor palette that includes different meats, seafood, and tropical fruits. Senagelese cuisine also draws influence from Portugal and North Africa. In addition to the existence of traditional Senegalese cuisine in homes and restaurants across the countries, Senegal also boasts a diverse array of international food choices, ranging from Asian to Indian.
Although seafood and meats are popular meal choices in Senegal, the presence of a prominent Muslim population results in very little pork consumption. The country's largest crop, as mentioned in my previous post about the economy, is the peanut. It is therefore hardly surprising that this particular food is integrated into many recipes, as well as lentils, couscous, and black-eyed peas. In terms of specific popular meals, one national dish can be seen in the photo below. Ceebu Jen, a fish dish served with rice, vegetables, and various spices, is just one example. Meals are typically served with bread, as well as various tropical fruits.
One of the more interesting aspects of food in Senegal is the actual process of dining, especially in homes. Dinner involves several rituals, including pouring water over your hands prior to entering the dining room and eating the meal with the first three fingers of your right hand. To see this method of eating in action, see the video below! Additionally, dinner represents a time to talk, share stories, and enjoy others' company. Living in a time and place where meals are often rushed and/or impersonal, it is refreshing to become familiar with a culture that values the potential intimacy and value of mealtimes, and holds strong associations between food and family.
Many college students look forward to the opportunity to study abroad during their junior year, hoping to experience the novelty of living in another country, interacting with new people, and soaking up an entirely new culture. Popular abroad destinations typically include France, New Zealand, Australia, Spain, and the UK. However, for students like Sarah Sagan, a less commonly chosen location was the most appealing. A current senior at Vanderbilt University and a Massachusetts native, Sarah spent the spring of her junior year studying abroad in Senegal. As a token of loyalty to our 18 year friendship, Sarah agreed to answer some of my questions regarding her experience as an American in Senegal. Below is a transcript of our correspondence:
Q: How long was your study abroad experience in Senegal, and where specifically were you living? A: I studied abroad in Senegal from January 2011 until May 2011. I lived with a host family in Ouakam within the capital city of Dakar. Ouakam used to be a separate fishing village but has since been incorporated into Dakar proper. Within Ouakam, I lived in the district of Cité Assemblé with my host mom, Oumy, host brother Ibrahima, host cousin Malang, and our maid, Fatou. While I was in Senegal, Oumy was being courted to become a third wife of a man named Djiby. They were married in August 2011.
Q: Did you experience much culture shock during your stay? If so, what particularly surprised you or made the adjustment more difficult? A: One of the bigger culture shocks I encountered was wrapping my head around this idea of living in a polygamous household. Oumy's first husband passed away, and she was the second wife in that marriage. She met Djiby while she was still mourning her first husband and only recently found it appropriate to seriously consider his courtship. In moments of honesty, Oumy would wonder to me if a single man could love two or three women. It was incredibly difficult for me to accept polygamy as a cultural practice and not just immediately judge the community that I was living in for being polygamous. The majority of other culture shocks I experienced were food and hygiene related. For example, the Senegalese eat communally around the bowl and with their hands. However, they only use their right hand. You know the adage "Wipe with the left and shake with the right"? Well on that note the Senegalese culturally do not use toilet paper. Yes you can purchase tissue, so I did not spend a semester embracing all aspects of Senegalese culture. For bathing, I had to get used to the bucket shower. Fill up a bucket, dump it over your head, and repeat.
Q: As an American, did you feel welcome and accepted by the Senegalese community? Why or why not?
A: I did feel welcome and accepted by the Senegalese community, especially my neighborhood in Ouakam. Oumy is beloved by my neighborhood, so it certainly helped to have such a social host mom. Minus the male neighbor that consistently proposed marriage whenever I saw him in the road/sand ditch, I really felt properly welcomed by the community. I made an effort to dress modestly and respect the Muslim culture. This meant being discrete about things like alcohol and being silent during the Call to Prayer. In Senegal as a whole, I felt comfortable while traveling around the country. However, it does become aggravating to constantly be asked for money or being yelled at in Wolof. As an American traveling, those are cultural aspects to anticipate but are not really a deterrent.
Q: What were your favorite and least favorite parts about your study abroad experience in Senegal?
I absolutely loved my host family. Fatou was my favorite family member. (It is very common in Senegal to have maids and the only sign of status is how many maids a family can employ.) Fatou was always around to hang out with or practice Wolof. As Fatou did not know French, our friendship began through dancing and gestures. The more Wolof I learned, the more we could talk and get to know each other. She was the first to make fun of me and the first to know when something was wrong. I also loved living right next to the beach and meeting the beachfront ex-pat community there.
My least favorite part of study abroad, well...I mentioned the bathroom situation? Less than ideal, but hey, you learn to get over that. I would say that the frustration of being laughed at by a big group of family members for doing something super "Toubab-y" or "white person-y" got old after a bit. It was certainly hard to worry that you were always on the verge of committing a culturally faux-pas.
So, there you have it--one Senegal abroad experience in a nutshell. Sarah's cultural observations provide interesting insight into how the local customs, values, and traditions are perceived by visitors or "outsiders," so I thank Sarah for her time and effort!! She was also kind enough to provide some pictures from her stay with her own personal captions, posted below.
"The Aunties dancing at my host family's Tam-Tam"
"Fatou, Ibrahima, Me"
"A picture from the Senegal vs. Cameroon national football game"
Although the Senegal economy has experienced a series of ups and downs over the years, one constant source of the country's income has been through the trading industry. More specifically, trade of the Senegalese peanut cash crop is the most traditional form of revenue in Senegal. Other common trading goods include fish, petroleum and phosphates; most goods are exported and traded with neighboring European countries and the United States (see image to the left for a visual of U.S.-Senegal trading history). As indicated by the chart, Senegal has a significantly higher export than import rate, making trade a major source of income. Senegal has also profited from a fairly lively tourism industry, specifically in its major city of Dakar.
During the rule of President Diouf from the early '80s to 2000, the government began to support a shift away from state involvement in the economy and towards more privatization in areas such as agriculture and textiles. Although this initiative continues to be supported by President Wade, the current government has run into issues with increasing numbers of unionized workers, thus hindering the attempt to implement a privatization policy.
As of 2007, Senegal suffered from a fairly high unemployment rate (48%) and percentage of citizens living in poverty (54%). Although many citizens work in the agriculture industry, there have been struggles with maintaining workable farmland. Given the widespread low standard of living in the country, it is hardly surprising that many Senegalese citizens have left the country in search of work in Europe, or even the United States. The figure to the right provides a visual representation of Senegalese migrants' reasons for migrating, with unemployment being the most common motivation.
The country has also faced some economic difficulties due to a steep population increase and unmonitored migration from rural areas into Dakar in the past 40 years. In light of the potential negative aftermath of such recent developments, Senegal's economy has more recently been largely aided by foreign assistance. In particular, the Millennium Challenger Corporation (United States aid initiative) has provided Senegal with $540 million in aid which will be put towards the creation of a new airport in Dakar and improving local roads and farmland. Therefore, despite the economic downturn in recent years, it appears that foreign aid will be of great help in getting the Senegal economy back on its feet.
Sources:
Britannica, "Senegal: Economy." Britannica Academic Edition. February 22, 2012. http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/534445/Senegal/55050/Economy
Central Intelligence Agency, "Senegal." United States Government. February 8, 2012 https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/sg.html
Drew Hinshaw, " Senegal's Economy to Grow 4.4% in 2012 as Power Output Rises." Bloomberg Business Week, September 13, 2011. http://www.businessweek.com/news/2011-09-13/senegal-s-economy-to-grow-4-4-in-2012-as-power-output-rises.html
Among all African countries, Senegal has consistently stood as a beacon of political light. As one of the only African state to never experience a coup d'etat, Senegal's government has been characterized
by long-term political stability. However, it is possible that all of this is about to change.
Before addressing the current state of affairs in Senegal, let's rewind 50 years to review the political trajectory of the country. As mentioned in my previous post, Senegal gained independence from France on April 4, 1960. For 40 years, the country was controlled by the socialist party, with its first president being Leopold Senghor, who remained in that position until 1981. At this point in time, Abdou Diouf replaced him as president. It was not until 2000, after Diouf had served four consecutive terms, that Abdoulaye Wade, a member of the Senegalese Democratic Party, ended the 40 year socialist reign.
Wade was eagerly welcomed to the presidency and pushed a relatively liberal agenda, supporting an open market and encouraging raising the country's profile, both locally and nationally. As mentioned in my post, "A Brief History," Wade has also encouraged the integration of diaspora members, especially those originally from Senegal who now live abroad. Despite the initial prosperity of the country under his presidency, recent political changes have transformed the once stable republic into chaotic turmoil.
In 2001, during Wade's first term as president, the constitution was amended such that a president in Senegal can only serve up to two terms in office. Despite the implementation of this new rule, Wade is currently running for a third term in office, claiming that because the amendment was not capped until he had already served a term in office, he technically should be granted an additional term. Not surprisingly, the seemingly unconstitutional candidacy of the 85 year old president for a third term has angered many citizens, leading to violent protests and, so far, the death of four citizens. Furthermore, Wade has been criticized for apparently hiring local citizens to show up at his speeches and feign an air of campaign solidarity. I've included some pictures below that capture the current political atmosphere in Senegal.
Additionally, for video footage and commentary on the recent protests, see the video above.
The country previously renowned for its peaceful political environment has transformed into a hotbed for riots, disorder, and general public dissatisfaction. Just several days ago, protestors stoned several cars carrying Wade's convoys. As the February 26th election nears, both the security and stability of the country are quickly dwindling. With 13 candidates running in opposition to Wade, the Senegalese people are hopeful that there will soon be an end to the unrest.
Protest Images:
Sources:
Associated Press, "Senegal's president's convoy stoned on campagin trail." USA Today, February 8, 2012. http://www.usatoday.com/news/world/story/2012-02-08/senegal-presidential-convoy-stoned/53015912/1
Associated Press, "Police fire tear gas at Senegal opposition protest." CBS News, February 15, 2012.http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-501710_162-57378101/senegal-bans-anti-government-demonstration/
Buya Jammeh, "Senegal's Wade intensified campaign amid protests." Africa News, February 15, 2012.
http://www.africanews.com/site/Senegals_Wade_intensifies_campaign_amid_protests/list_messages/41110
Constitution Net. "Constitutional history of Senegal," last modified 2012, http://www.constitutionnet.org/country/constitutional-history-senegal
globalEdge, "Senegal: Government," Michigan State University, last modified 2012, http://globaledge.msu.edu/Countries/Senegal/government
U.S. Department of State, United States Government, last modified January 13, http://www.state.gov/r/pa/ei/bgn/2862.htm
Located on the West African coast just north of Guinea and south of Mauritania (see map), Senegal is a republic of 12,643,799. The majority of Senegalese citizens are Muslim, and although the country's official language is French, most speak the local dialect of Wolof. The country depends on agriculture for the majority of its revenue and, despite high levels of poverty and unemployment, Senegal is one of the more stable African countries.
In the 17th through 19th centuries, Senegal was colonized and ruled by the French. Economic profits were largely driven by slave, ivory, and gold trade, and it was not until 1960 that the country officially became an independent republic. Despite a relatively peaceful political environment in recent years, the recent news that current 85 year-old President Abdoulaye Wade could run for a third term in office has enraged many citizens. More specifically, violent protests and demonstrations have sent the city of Dakar into, at least temporary, upheaval, as the Senegalese people express their discontent (see video). Given his history of some potentially corrupt political maneuvers, Wade has lost the trust of his country.
Nonetheless, Wade has also been an integral part of Senegal's movement towards encouraging reconnections among members of the African Diaspora. Many once Senegalese citizens now live abroad and provide financial assistance to their families at home, a demonstration of how members of the country have dispersed over time. However, President Abdoulaye Wade (see picture to the left) has made recent efforts to allow members of the African Diaspora to visit Senegal without a visa of any sort. Similarly, he is attempting to make the diaspora a more central focus in African affairs, viewing this as an opportunity to connect people both at home and abroad who share a common history. Such recent efforts indicate that the country may be amidst a rebuilding process; perhaps contact between Senegalese at home and abroad will be greatly facilitated in the near future.
I am by no means an expert on Senegal--in fact, this is exactly the reason I've chosen to research this particular country. A friend of mine recently returned from a study abroad program in Dakar with endless remarkable stories about the people, places, and customs that she encountered. Therefore, I am looking forward to developing a more complex and thorough understanding of the country. In particular, I look forward to exploring the specific cultural and ethnic makeup of Senegal, given its clear French influence.
Sources:
Africa EU, "Senegal opens door to diaspora." Africa and Europe in Partnership, January 6, 2010. http://www.africa-eu-partnership.org/news/senegal-opens-doors-diaspora
BBC News, Africa, last modified January 11, 2012. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-14093674
Rukmini Callimachi, "2 shot dead in Senegal election protest." Associated Press, January 30, 2012.
